VW Brake Light Switch from NAPA #SL147
http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S(5nsx4dqcivjwti45vz01vu55))/Results.aspx?Ntt=SL147&Ntk=Part%20Number&N=0&Nty=1&D=SL147&Dn=0&Dk=1&Dp=3
It's a perfect fit and has the right
connectors according to Steve Hawkins
http://realbig.com/pipermail/detomaso/2003-September/032526.html
HOWEVER... Others have found that it's NOT an exact fit...
Ian Hannington found that the stock switch has a 1/4'' pipe thread while
part #SL147 has an 1/8'' tube thread.
http://realbig.com/pipermail/detomaso/2004-October/047733.html
Jack DeRyke confirms and points out that the
connectors are different too:
http://realbig.com/pipermail/detomaso/2004-October/047740.html
'82-up GM Mechanical Brake Light Switch
Jack DeRyke reports that adapting an '82-up GM
style mechanical brake light switch to the Pantera brake pedal is not
difficult, saves considerable money and forever fixes the brake switch
problems.
http://realbig.com/pipermail/detomaso/2004-September/047653.html
GM Brake Light Switch
Forrest Goodhart used a switch from any mid
80's Chevy without cruise control and found it to be very quick and easy.
1. He used a piece of flat bar about 1"x3/16"x2"-3" long.
2. Drilled a hole near one end that the switch would slip through and a hole
near the other end that fits the shaft size of the stop that the brake pedal
hits under the dash.
3. Unscrewed the stop, inserted the bar, replaced the stop and adjusted the
switch so that the pedal just pushes it enough to turn off when the brake
pedal is released.
4. Then intercepted the wires going to the original switch and connected
them to the new switch.
It is easier than it sounds.

Generic Plunger Switch from a CNC Milling
Machine
Chris Difani used a limit switch for a CNC
milling machine. It's stainless steel, and is designed for severe usage
within a machine tool environment. It's got a spring loaded plunger set in a
stainless steel case and is designed to work in more than one plane. Check
with
Chris to see where he ordered it (he actually gave me one because he had
an extra).
Here are some pictures Chris took of the
installed brake light switch. He took them with a flashlight, laying on his
head, under the dash, so they're as good as they're going to get.
The concept is a small piece of sheet metal riveted on top of the pedal stop
bolt support, then the plunger end of the switch fits against the pedal,
such that it's "open" when the pedal's against the stop bolt. I'd really
remove the stop bolt support so you can work on it "outside". It would be
best to pull the entire pedal assembly out, but that's kind of tricky.


You can see the switch is to the left, and you can see one of the switch
mounting screws on the left, between the stop bolt and the side of my
riveted sheet metal. The switch hangs off to the left, but that's due to the
triangular shape of the stop bolt support, and it's weird angle. You can
also see the rear end of the switch plunger too.
|